Cale Shapera

Rennell Sound

After my folks went back to Vancouver, I stuck around Haida Gwaii for a few days to read, see my friend Kieran, and explore the last couple main places we hadn't checked out.

Kieran's compound was a sight to behold. The man seemed slightly bewildered at the work left to be done to convert the industrial zone to a happy home, but a lot had already been done. He treated me very hospitably with some canned venison pasta and we traded war stories while walking his dog, Luka, along Agate Beach.

I didn't want to cramp his style as he had a lot he wanted to get done before the rains came, so I decided to take my lovely rental van out along the logging road to Rennell Sound.

The beautiful day (which started up north by Masset), turned to muddy rain about thirty minutes down the logging road, and I started to have thoughts like "what if I get stuck?" or "what if the van breaks down?". It was pretty desolate out there and I didn't have a ton of supplies.

Still, I soldiered gamely on, and when I emerged on to the wild west coast, I was actually met with several large RVs with Alberta plates and kids running around. Disappointed, I kept trundling down the road. Spot after glorious spot was full of campers... unbelievable. One of my most-hated things is venturing deep into the Canadian wild only for it to be, somehow, crowded.

But fortune did smile upon me, and at the very end of the logging road there was a barren little woody camping spot with a path marked "beach". I parked the van and walked down to see one of the most beautiful, secluded beaches I've ever been to. It was almost 6:00 pm by that point, so I had to get my kicks in ASAP. It was pretty warm, so I took a few slams of the vodka I'd brought, stripped nude, and explored the area. The only soul I saw was a solitary bald eagle which flew 10 metres over my head out as I approached its perch.

Sometimes life doesn't disappoint.